Rolex is
the most powerful watch brand in the world. That does not mean Rolex
watches are the best, or that they are worth the most. Rather that the
brand itself has the highest value. It does this through a combination
of working with incredibly fancy marketing firms such as M. Booth &
Associates, in addition to its in-house people...and by having pretty
nice looking watches. The secret Rolex formula has been attempted to be
replicated on many occasions, but without success.
However, on an
dollar for dollar measurement, Rolex outspends its competitors by nearly
double when it comes to marketing and advertising. So you really are
buying a name, but maybe it is a name worth buying. Rolex watches are of
the few that when you sell them, you can usually get the same or more
as when you bought them. That is power. And I sure as hell am not immune
to it being a watch lover. I don't take keenly to all Rolex watches,
but there are some you can't resist. No sane watch lover can deny that
the classic Submariner design is universally appealing.
It is commonly known that while they release good products, Rolex
seems to move slower than a snail on horse tranquilizers. It isn’t just
about releasing new products, it has to do with keeping up with trends
and improving on existing models. For the most part they are just being
careful. Most of their “good” designs are over 40-60 years old. It is
hard to mess with a good design and feel comfy about it. For example,
the new Rolex Date-Just presents an incredible change… by growing to
41mm (but retaining the 36mm for those who like the traditional smaller
size). Regardless, this year a few get changes to the basic Submariner
line make me the newest fan of this incredibly lasting design.
The new case shape is a bit more angular and squared than before, and
it actually works well. To an extent it is a more retro look than the
out-going Submariner model. There are a few good changes to the design
that take the watch into a new area of desirability. First is the
ceramic bezel. The out-going model still had the aluminum bezel insert
that was starting to look cheap, and certainly got scratched way too
easily. The new high tech ceramic bezel has molded in numerals (that
won’t scratch off). Plus the bezel itself will retain the shine without
getting dull and won’t scratch either. This type of bezel first seen on
the new GMT Master and the DeepSea Sea-Dweller now finds a home on the
Submariner. Better yet, the different Rolex diving watches are starting
to have a different character from one another. It used to be that the
Submariner and Sea-Dweller were clones to most people’s eyes save for
the helium escape valve and the lack of magnifier lens on the
Sea-Dweller. Now when you look at a DeepSea Sea-Dweller and Submariner
you can really tell the difference.
The case has a few updates as well. It seems like the hands are
fattened up even more, which makes for a good look. Rolex has a silly
name for it "Maxi-dial." Case size is still medium for the era at about
42mm, but it looks good. On this two-tone model, the gold accents on the
bezel and dial look really nice with the gold center link on the
bracelet. All Submariner watches have gold hands and indicators on the
face. The all steel cased versions have white gold on the face instead
of yellow gold.
The story with the lume is different as well. Gone is green, long
live blue! The hour markers and hands are all appointed with a ton of
lovely blue glowing lume that is brighter (and better underwater) than
the green most people are used to. Plus, the lume on the bezel has the
same treatment as on the SeaDweller — contained in a little case to
prevent it from being damaged or wearing out. To keep things looking
serious, Rolex keeps a healthy portion of the case with a brushed
finish, while other segments get the polished look.
Rolex’s in-house movement has always gotten top marks for being
accurate and hardy, and nothing has changed there. Still, each model is a
certified Chronometer. I’ve been told by a number of watch repair
people that they prefer working on Rolex movements for being simple and
easy to get parts for. Rolex does a good job at making a world-class
mass produced movement and watch.
UPDATE. Just got word that the new Rolesor (mix of
steel and gold) Rolex Submariner watch pictures will in fact have the
glidelock deployments of the new DeepSea Sea-Dweller watches. Good news!
It was just a few years ago that Rolex finally got rid of the outer pin
holes on the lugs. I really hated some of the older bracelet
deployments, but with the new system of the DeepSea Sea-Dweller, Rolex
proved that if it put its mind to it, it could come up with the best
bracelet deployment in the industry. As stated above, the new Rolex
Submariner watches will indeed have a much upgraded bracelet in
comparison to the outgoing models.
Most people with a liking of the Rolex Submariner could go on and on
about this watch. The real power of the Submariner, no matter the
color, style, presence of gold, or similar - is that it is truly the
world's most versatile watch. Looks good on anyone, in any outfit, and
can go most anywhere. With it's high value retention and universal
appeal, and a design that keeps getting (incrementally) better. As much
as the Rolex brand may be overinflated in some areas, you can always
rely on the staying power of the Rolex Submariner. Now I just have to
get one myself someday.
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